Mountaineering ice axe length reddit. My research has brought me to the Blue Ice Falk (light weight, affordable) and the Blue Ice Akila (more Jul 25, 2025 · To determine the right mountaineering ice axe, assess the axe’s length, weight, blade design, and intended use based on your specific climbing needs and conditions. It's also easier to glissade with a proper shaft/spike. com One thing to keep in mind is that your ice axe will most likely be on your backpack more than your hand. I'm considering the Petzl Literide which is only 50 cm. Jan 17, 2024 · If you’re climbing or mountaineering, having the right tools is necessary for your success and safety. Also, ice axes are not walking sticks and will not replace Not every mountaineering trip has the iconic mountaineering gear, but that would include at least one ice axe, boots and crampons If it's multi-day I include camping stuff: Tent, often times 4-season Down sleeping bag Insulating ground pad (s) Stove Spoon Backup headlamp Pee bottle More warm layers Hey all, I’m looking to buy my boyfriend a backpack for ice climbing for his birthday. I wouldn’t go longer unless my climbs contained long flat sections of hiking on glacier or rarely was steeper than 20-30 degrees pitch. As the title implies, I'm looking at picking up a Petzl Summit for climbing colouirs and steep snow. It’s short enough to not get in the way when climbing anything steep and not too long when you’re side hilling. Anyone still recommend this? Or is there a disadvantage that ruins the technique? Edit: I saw this technique used by Jamling General mountaineering: everything from walking to low grade un-roped scrambling/climbing: mid-calf length alpine/hybrid axe: Petzl Summit Evo Full-on roped climbing: Tech tools (Quarks) A good small selection of cams would be . And yes, it's perfectly fine for glacier travel. The biggest reason for the short length is dexterity at steep grades and during a self arrest. You need to stick the ice axe into the snow to do that while hiking, and you shouldn't be doing that with an ice climbing axe's handle. If you plan on bringing a second tool for climbing steep ice, I would definitely recommend limiting your ice axe length to no more 52cm, as longer axes are definitely more awkward to climb steep, sustained ice with. What is a technical ice axe? There are ice axes and ice tools. Walkers will carry a single ice axe, but as the ground blurs between mountaineering and technical climbing, a pair of tools comprising an adze and a hammer becomes the norm. These come in a range of different lengths and styles, from the classic long, straight-shafted hill walking axe to slightly more technical curved mountaineering axes. If you have a rubber handle) Can pair it with a single climbing axe (like a Quark) on the pitches too. I recently just shortened my 60cm ice axe to 45cm by drilling out the rivet that holds the spike, taking the spike out, cutting the shaft to the desired length then glueing the pick back in place. com Long axes just aren't really made to stick into water ice. Is this too short for general mountaineering? Edit: Went with the 55cm Black Diamond Pro. g. We'll be practicing lots of ice anchors, glacier travel, crevasse rescue, etc. I’m 6’5 and use a 75cm. While less maneuverable in technical terrain, they are ideal for glacier travel and mountaineering scenarios. To the uninitiated, it seems unnecessarily dangerous and hardcore. On the other hand, most alpine packs have no May 15, 2025 · It’s worth noting that terrain and activity also influence length selection: Shorter axes (45-55 cm) are preferred for steeper terrain and technical climbing Medium-length axes (55-65 cm) offer the best versatility for general mountaineering Longer axes (65+ cm) provide better balance on low-angle terrain but can be unwieldy for self-arrest Using an Ice Axe: Techniques and Best Practices Oct 21, 2024 · This is a gear review of the Best Ice Axes for Hiking, Mountaineering, Backpacking, and Thru-Hiking. AAI requires a hammered ice tool such as the Quark, but also a hybrid axe measuring between 50-59cm such as a Petzl Sum'Tec, Petzl Summit Evo (a bit less of a hybrid I guess), or the BD Venom. I would argue that you not skimp on the length to save weight either. A good small selection of cams would be . It was a non technical but heavily exposed route on Everest. ), while other climbers I've met swear by We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. We look at both straight and curve shaft options with a wide variety of uses, including technical, vertical ice climbing, ski mountaineering, and glacial travel. If you can't climb ice with a mountaineering axe comfortably then the tools aren't going to make that much of a difference. First time buying an ice axe and I'm not sure which length to get. But for a walk up, I'd stick with a straight axe with no grip. Except the extra rubber at the end. Great all around ice axe, handles steeper terrain, and is quite comfortable paired with an ice tool when it gets too steep for an axe alone. I erred longer and it works well. Nov 29, 2023 · Long length ice axes prioritize stability and leverage. I'm 5' 2" and pretty light at 100 lbs. Feb 5, 2021 · Looking for advice on how to size an ice axe for walking or mountaineering? Our in-depth guide explains the differences between ice axes and how to select the correct length ice axe for you. E. They provide support on steep slopes, help in self-arrest (stopping a fall), and are useful for cutting steps in snow or ice. Thanks for your suggestions everyone! :) For your height, 50-60 cm is the recommended ice axe length. renting various gear items: boots, crampons, and ice axe are the biggest items. And a classic straight ice axe will always be better for glacier travel and self arrest. Moderate stuff, you'll be plunging the end 90% of the time, so plain aluminum is actually better. I find ice axes shorter than 50 cm more difficult to self arrest with, so I wouldn’t recommend going shorter than 50 cm for most people. Probably looking for something in the 45-50 L ish range. If you start climbing steep stuff, then look at the venom. IMO beginner mountaineers are too eager to get a second axe than use good technique with one. The venom is best for routes where Hi reddit, My wife and I are avid hikers, but new to mountaineering. At the end of the day your placements and footwork have much more of an impact then your equipment. Hi! I'm an avid ultralight backpacker (base weight around 10-11lbs) but I also enjoy mountaineering. However, when you need a long throw for glissading or a deep anchor point for a little more security while taking a rest on a steep climb, the correct length for your body is key. Those handles are made for holding on to and strapping leashes to, not shoving into ice. Navigate snow and ice with confidence using our detailed guide to choosing ice axes and crampons. Wire gates are good for ice climbing, because less chance of gate getting frozen shut (right? That is what I heard). It's cheaper, lighter, and literally the same shaft and pick as the Evo. Logic being that if it's flat enough that you'd need the extra length from the ice axe, you don't need an ice axe. Edit: the style should be general mountaineering. I want to use them both on ice and mixed climbing in lower grades and also as single ice axe for skitouring, i prefer something lighter even at the cost of durability, since i wont be using them that many times in a sesons, alason something less curved and technical than nomics. Broadly speaking, axe price correlates with the technical level of the [terrain]. So you are making a walking axe, most of the time with that thing it will either be on your backpack or you will just be carrying iz in your hand right? You wont be hammering into ice a lot with it so in my opinion the overall goal should be that the axe is as light as possible. I use a 57cm axe as my all-purpose general axe at 6’2 (186cm). Jan 28, 2022 · Over the last 10 years, we've tested over 21 of the best ice axes on the market. Sumtec seems completely overkill if you don't want to get 1 hybrid axe now There is some overlap between technical axes (like the north machine or quark for example) and ice climbing, but if you'll still end up with something not good most of the time, having the right tool for the job makes a huge difference. This. Also be aware if you glissade for any length of time, your pants/shorts/lower back may get soaked and you'll have numb cheeks. I liked the axe so much I replaced it with a 55cm just because I wanted to be able to use it as a cane if necessary and to have a bit more length for swinging. He was self belaying with each plunge of the axe on snow that looked like 60 degrees maybe. Their importance cannot be overstated, as they are crucial for both ascent and descent, offering climbers the support needed to tackle challenging environments. These axes are designed for basic snow and glacier travel, self-arresting if you're unlucky enough to start sliding, and occasionally, a steep snow climb. , one hybrid) I use for most of my technical outings anyways. In this update, we select 17 of the current market's best to hack away at waterfalls, chop steps, and practice our self-arrest techniques. As everyone starts to gear up for thru hikes and early season snow travel, I thought I’d write an overview on ice axes. You’ll also want a few alpine draws, a ~20 foot length of Sterling PowerCord or similar, a 120cm sewn sling (I recommend the Edelrid Aramid sling), something to use for friction hitches, a small Jan 14, 2022 · Knowing how to choose an ice axe involves some simple measurements to make sure you have the right length for winter hiking, scrambling and climbing I would also do lot's of crag ice climbing before doing glacial ice climbing. I'm 5'10. There may be snow conditions where the longer ice axe pick can penetrate deeper, providing more friction during the arrest. Adze, hammer or both? An adze is a cutting edge found on the head of the axe, positioned perpendicular to the handle, and is typically used for digging and cutting steps in Mar 16, 2025 · Home / Gear Guides / We get to grips with the best ice axes 2025 We get to grips with the best ice axes 2025 Alex Roddie reviews the best ice axes, an essential tool for managing risk in snowy mountains, with additional testing from David Lintern and Lucy Wallace. For general mountaineering and not climbing steep ice, I'd just go with the black diamond raven. By my math it seems quite short. Ice axes are essential for mountaineering, ice climbing, and glacier travel. You’ll also want a few alpine draws, a ~20 foot length of Sterling PowerCord or similar, a 120cm sewn sling (I recommend the Edelrid Aramid sling), something to use for friction hitches, a small Best length for ice axe what do i need pct reddit outdoor gear steel climbing rainier ski mountaineering height touring - expocafeperu. If I get into ice climbing, do I need new draws with more traditional wire gate design? How do I choose length of ice axe? Any knot specific to ice climbing that many trad climber might I’m looking to get an ice axe! I’m aiming for something that will hopefully work all-around; something light and versatile as possible. Whatever long axe you can afford will serve you well. What’s your favourite, or what features do you most appreciate? Thanks! Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A Alpineice23 • Choosing ice axe length ski mountaineering how to select reddit outdoor gear for steel climbing rainier vs height touring - expocafeperu. Short ice axes make for easy packing, I get it. Like isn’t that a basic first purchase for just about anyone getting into climbing/alpinism. Mar 12, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I say this because far too many people falsely think an ice axe is only really for self-arresting. I find the mid 60s length awkward to swing overhead (the length of course is driven more by your height and perceived needs to self belay on gentler slopes). But don’t plan on buying a second one in an effort to use it for climbing that would require two tools. They are made in WA. Any input Google ice axe sizing and go with that - stand straight up, hold ax where handle meets head (like a cane), and ax should be around top of ankle. It can be used to self-arrest, which means using the axe to stop oneself from sliding down a steep slope. Start your journey today! If you don't plan technical ice climbing, get the regular Summit. When the terrain will be steep I use my ax with an ice tool or two ice tools. A few guides I've met have said leashes can do more harm than good (discouraging you from moving the axe from one hand to the other, etc. Thinking of the Petzl Summit and wondering about length and whether 52 or 59 cm. It likely doesn't have a technical pick and the shaft isn't rigid enough to handle the impact, especially at that length. Winter hiking will need only light and simple. Self arresting is much easier with a standard piolet than any tools with a reverse curved pick (or even a whippet). We were traveling across a glacier in 3 person rope teams. Using an ice climbing axe for self arrest is a good way to dislocate your shoulder or get the axe ripped from your hands without even slowing you down. Find out how to choose the right ice axe for your intended use. Non sketchy but would like a bit of a nicer hold while climbing - whippet Sketchy to point of needing one tool - ice axe Pretty sketchy with one tool - ice axe and whippet Two tools required - steep to near vertical ice Remember ice axe = boot crampons and a helmet. It's inspirational as well as instructive. You need an ice axe. Feb 6, 2025 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I've spent a fair bit of time teaching self arrest techniques to university students and I have them practice with a big range; from the standard straight shaft ice axe all the way to ridiculously curved tools like Nomics. Here are the best ice axes for your next adventure. It 100% agree with this. Jan 24, 2020 · I haven't been able to locate a 100 cm length ice axe. For versatility I go with the Petzl Summit. I want to buy my first crampons and ice axe, and obviously I want them to be as versatile as possible. So I saw someone mention that long axe's like the petzl summit are something newbies use and all experienced mountaineers use something like the petzl ride and trekking poles. Learn the nuances of gear selection for hiking, mountaineering, and technical climbs, and ensure your safety with our Mountain Logic recommendations. For the crampons, I am undecided on these (using petzl but can be similar of another brand) Vasak Sarken Lynx I would use them on easier stuff, but might eventually try steeper terrain - though very unlikely ice climbing for a few years, and if I reach that point, I can buy more technical Lastly I'm not sure I agree with the mountaineering axe length recommendation in every case because I think it's a bit outdated. An ice axe is a must for mountaineering. There are some hybrid tools that are good, but these are still called ice axes. I used it not too many times, mostly on glaciers and snowy slopes in the winter. One of the bummers of ultralight packs I always see discussed here is that there's nowhere to put your ice axe, rope, helmet, skis or avy gear. They provide climbers with increased reach, improved self-arrest capabilities, and enhanced stability on moderate slopes and in snowier conditions. For nuts I would recommend the DMM Alloy Offset gold, blue, red, and grey. A couple pitons of different shapes and sizes could be useful. Perfect for climbers aiming for Rainier, Denali, and beyond. Roped mountaineering, a T rated shaft and slight curve with some grip is ideal - something that you can arrest, rescue and do light climbing with. I'm currently looking at getting a new ice axe, right now I have the Petzl Summit. 5, . And when you say you used your friend’s ice axe, was it a straight-shafted axe or a hybrid or an ice tool? I can see how you might think it’s short if you used it for hiking and climbing support. Mountaineering ice axe length/reccomendations? Anyone have any adivce on what's a good length for an ice axe? 45cm, 50cm, 60cm+? I am looking at this one but read that the 45cm length makes a self arrest more difficult? I am looking for a lightwieght small ice axe for climbing in couliors. For more technical mountaineering something I saw a video of a guy climbing unroped but tethered to his axe with a sling and biner. Long ice axes will get in the way of both of these things. I personally find the wood isn’t as cold to handle and is grippier when wet compared to some other things. You are going to buy new axes down the road anyway, because who doesn’t have multiple ice axes, locker full of boots, etc. Feb 14, 2024 · Winter hill walking, classic mountaineering and many alpinism adventures usually involve the use of a single ice axe – sometimes referred to as a piolet. Straight handle, no rubber grip, and ankle bone length is my preference for a basic ax, others may have different preferences. Ice tools have a pretty uniform length. What used to be common advice is now outdated. BD Raven for sure. I've seen some tall people end up with axes close to 80cm long and heavy af, which I think is rather riduculous. Hello all. I am looking to buy my first axe for winter climbing and I am going back and forth between an ice tool and a full-length mountaineering axe. I bring my second TOOL for legit water ice climbing, but that's it. An ice axe should mostly be used similar to a trekking pole when climbing ice/snow, as an extra sturdy point of contact with the mountain. the BD Raven or Petzl Summit. I’m generally looking for something I can toss on my pack for extra safety while getting into some more intense skimo trips and winter scrambling. It’s just a basic rundown of features and what to look for if you’re new to Mountaineering newbie here - I'm starting a mountaineering course this winter in the pacific northwest. Learning how to size an ice axe is crucial to technical mountaineering. 75, and 1. And others are not using the correct nomenclature. Most resources for ice axes focus on general mountaineering. Reply reply qreepii • There are several things that make me a favor my wood axe over my little modern one. Worst case, you can bring it to famous mountaineers’ social events and collect autographs on it, or leave by your bed as a, I don’t know, home defense weapon maybe? 2 days ago · Looking for reliable ice axes for your mountaineering adventures? Explore our top 15 picks to stay safe and prepared while climbing the toughest peaks. How about Wild Country Helium? It's wire gate, but it has more contact between gate and nose. In some situations, the longer length of the ice axe shaft can help with walking, ascending and traversing balance. We were debating the merits of buying vs. Traveling on ice requires specialized skills, hence you will need specialized equipment. As others have said, your ice axe is for self arrest and not a walking stick. Learn how to choose an ice axe! Ice-axe for glacier, steep slopes but no ice-climbing Currently I have a Petzl Glacier 75 cm. My Google searches have only found a 90 cm as the longest. Don't even look at ice climbing stuff unless you are harnessed up and doing legitimate ice climbing. Choose an axe for your intended level of use [and within your ability] i. General Mountaineering Ice Axes For general mountaineering, you want an axe that offers a good balance between length and weight, giving you the necessary stability, without being big, heavy and cumbersome. Jan 14, 2017 · For steep mountaineering the above is absolutely true. Michael Covington is on the cover climbing Mt Kilimanjaro I believe. Longer axes will facilitate descending and downclimbing. There's no reason to bring 2 sharp things to impale oneself otherwise (again IMO) or the weight. With some popular ultralight pack materials, an unlucky crampon poke will shred the bag in 3 seconds. I'm climbing Kautz with Alpine Ascents in June and wanted some advice on ice tools. I'll see what happens on my trip this weekend. The ice axe goes at the bottom, the helmet will be wrapped inside a jacket, crampons in a crampon bag, sleeping bag in a compression sack, tent in a tent bag, etc. A general mountaineering axe like Aluminium ice axes without spike are dangerous garbage and fit only for moderately compacted spring snowpack and low elevations. Most routes involve a lot more trekking where ski poles are handy and you only need an ice axe when the terrain gets steeper. 4, . Leashes: Yay or Nay? I have heard mixed opinions about having a leash on your ice axe (we're talking general mountaineering ice axes, not ice tools for ice climbing). If you truly need something in the mid 60s lengthwise, then I’d continue to stay with a straight shaft or slight bend one. Get it for mountaineering, knowing that it’s more capable than a traditional axe and can also climb gullies, couloirs, and mixed ice and snow better than a basic axe. In the future I primarily plan to do most of the cascades volcanoes by the standard trade routes (Rainier DC, Adams, Baker, Glacier, Hood, maybe Olympus). The former for general mountaineering and the latter for ice climbing. The length of the handle can sometimes lend itself quite nicely for certain things, length of the pick is longer and the adze is wider for cutting steps. I honestly find that everything i could accomplish with trash like camp corsa i could (and have) accomplish with trekking poles and save that weight entirely. However, I would look at the 50cm options first. After years of renting, I’m finally ready to purchase my own ice axe for summits in the area (Adams, Hood, Helens, Rainier). Some are applicable to hikers, some are not. 9/10 for ski objectives one can get a good 2 points of contact without a second tool or turning onto the toes. Thoughts? You'll always have a need for a good, general mountaineering axe, even if you get into more technical stuff later. I don’t know what length will fit in your pack, but the 45cm ice axes without steel spikes (i. I know some would recommend just using two ice tools for something like this (and yes, I know that some of An ice axe can provide extra security and stability when traveling on snow-covered or icy terrain. Washington, Mt. I was cheating with a 56 cm Grivel Super Courmayeur with an Evolution pick that could go back and forth between mountaineering and water ice/alpine ice routes, but thinking a lighter axe might be nice. You can supplement that with a 2nd, more technical/hybrid tool later, which is the combo (one reg. Not only does it need to be suited for the terrain, but also sized correctly. Don't overthink tools. , Petzl Ride) are designed to be carried inside most packs. If you can afford an ice axe, you can afford a pull up bar. I'm considering buying one of those hybrid axes but after climbing for 20 years I still get by without. Remember that the ice axe is not a walking stick, it is a tool for cutting steps in ice, and saving your life during a fall. More important than the brand name of the axe is buy Yvonn Chouinard's excellent book Climbing Ice. First of all I was told by a lot of people that it's too long. If you don't need to swing it for climbing or lean on it for ballance, the 45 is a great option Ice axe or ice tools? For ice climbing you need two ice tools, not an ice axe (although there are some ice tools that can also work as passable ice axes). Would be willing to climb just about anything shy of vertical ice with it, and even short pitches of ice haven't been a problem. We have a couple of trips planned in the next year or so including a winter climb on Mt. It'll be easier to walk with and easier to get used to as a first timer. Feb 12, 2024 · When looking for a climbing axe for your next adventure, be sure to consult our detailed assessment of the best ice axe. Jun 10, 2019 · Having an ice axe is important for mountain climbing, and we will break down some options and what is best suited for different terrain. Learn how to size your ice axe, the parts of an ice axe and key features to consider. e. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Would you mind posting where you were able buy the 100 cm and the brand/model? Thanks Wingert Barney's Sports Chalet and Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking both in Anchorage. It's an old film though. , with a graduation climb - likely on Adams or Baker. Aug 21, 2023 · My current mountaineering axe is 70cm and is heavy. Makes plunging the axe easier as well. . However, personal preference and the slopes you expect to typically encounter may shorten the length. But i'm on the hunt for somebody more hybrid, meaning something that can be used for glacier travel and technical mountaineering in the Alps. They make better walking sticks for the approaches and low angled stuff. I have seen a ice axe self-arrest performed properly first hand and it likely saved a life on a mountaineering expedition. Are they capable of climbing that sort of terrain? Yes, but actually tools are better. This isn’t meant to be a comprehensive review of individual ice axes or technique. An Ice Axe provides both safety and security when climbing, hiking, and mountaineering in icy conditions. I'm considering getting the 52cm length (vs 59cm) as I will really only be using this on steeps - 40 degrees and steeper - and maybe for short ridge walks - I definitely will not be using the ice axe as any sort of 'cane' at any point because, well, I have two poles for that. I am tall/ skinny with large feet (size 14), which makes Apr 28, 2025 · Explore the best mountaineering ice axes for different climbing styles, with tips on selecting the right axe for self-arrest, glacier travel, and technical climbs. Rainier, and hopefully a trip to Ecuador. The general rule of sizing an ice axe for general or traditional mountaineering says that the spike of the axe should reach your ankle when you hold the head of the axe in your hand alongside your body. Understanding Ice Axes Ice axes are versatile tools designed for ice climbing, mountaineering, and other alpine activities. In my experience the banana curve makes a big difference I would recommend down climbing the first bit to just get a feel for the snow consistency and conditions. I’m typically never winter climbing, and summiting during the March - Sept mountaineering season. If they're climbing 60 degree couloirs, they're going to fall in love with ice climbing someday. Our expert But if you can do that it becomes a do-everything axe, until you need a reverse a pick, keeping you safe on gentle ground and far superior to longer axes on graded terrain (esp. icfcn rmw hguqy pwkjk uqrwmjg yoxl rbcfbuj cetxyp iwzp qlbfrd