Max hangs vs repeaters reddit. Still, I follow Dave Mac and only use the hangboard as a max strength tool. For context, I (33F) have been bouldering for around 6 years. Repeaters are better for hypertrophy, which a newer climber may benefit from--if you then transition to max hangs then you'll have more muscle to learn to recruit. While repeaters will give you results over a longer period of time. Looking for the most efficient routine to build finger strength. Good reasons to use longer durations IMO would be to progress without increasing weights during a given cycle, if you're worried about injury. What makes you think you're training wrong? I thought the general protocol for 7s on 3s off is about 6 reps. Relative novice to hang boarding though Lately I have been considering switching my hangboard protocol (I've been on a repeater protocol pretty much every training season for many years now) to max hangs. I am considering doing one arm timed pulls with the Tindeq with the idea that it would be easier to get a true max "hang" since I am not limited by a fixed weight added to myself. I was doing 7:3 repeaters before that and found them to be very effective, but quite a hard and long session compared to the max hangs sessions I do now. I learned this after spending about 18 months doing max hangs consistently interspersed with 2-3 week breaks ever couple of months, and tracking my results. Max Hangs and Repeaters in the Same Session? I just finished 8 weeks of max hangs and the minimal edge protocol and I managed to get a stronger max! Now i am moving onto an endurance cycle and I was wondering if it is efficient to start a session with max hangs, and then at the end of the session do the Crimpd app’s 7:3 repeater @80%. All on what I believe is an 18mm edge. NOTE: Repeater training to preferentially target the anaerobic pathways must utilize high-intensity hangs, although few sets and more rest between sets. What's the best way to add some endurance training in? 1 max hang and 1 repeater session each week? single session of 7:53 repeaters? Thanks! Jun 20, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Max hangs is questioned to consist of enough volume for structural changes in the connective tissue compared to repeaters. I focused on repeaters and my 20mm max hangs increased from ~145lbs for 5 seconds in January 2024 to ~169lbs for 4 seconds May 2024. Watch this video for an example of a more anaerobic-system-focused 7/3 protocol. What are people's thoughts on that? Climbing 7a+ lead outdoors and v5 boulders. Repeaters should deliver a pump towards the end of a set, while max. hangs deliver zero pump across any/all sets. I'll post an update in about 4-6 weeks after a few runs at max hangs and continued training. In the past, I have started a new cycle with repeaters to build some strength before cycling through max hangs, no hangs or recruitment pulls (tried all three with similar effects over the years) then cycling back through repeaters again. It would be better to actually just make sure you are working say 3-5 pinch climbs every climbing session so you're forced to get better at them. So I think we're mostly training strength (with max hangs) or endurance (with repeaters) but not hypertrophy so much, which is okay anyway. Can I Max hang, then repeater in the same day? Or is that playing with fire Currently nursing a small ankle injury so this week I did Monday max hangs Wednesday repeaters tomorrow (Friday) max hangs again. Repeaters work your anaerobic lactic energy system while max. Personally, I found that after about 4-6 weeks of max hangs, my gains basically stopped and leveled out. Currently using this routine once a week: 5 max hangs, minute rest between each (haven't begun adding weight) for basal readings, followed by 3 sets of repeaters (10 sec x 7 reps). However, this may be offset depending on the amount of hard (er) climbing that one does. . Overall, by volume repeaters in the 3-5 set range are superior for both strength and hypertrophy compared to max hangs up to 9 sets in isolation. Description of the hangs: Max hangs: 7-10 second holds, 2:30 to 3:00 min breaks, adding weight (if needed) to get failure within that time frame. hangs work your anaerobic a-lactic. Max hangs should give you better results in the time frame you mentioned. I've always done repeaters hanging on a board with an appropriate amount of weight to get the right hang time. Feb 22, 2020 · In this video we discuss the research between max hangs vs repeaters, demonstrate each, and give some advice if you are still undecided. Repeaters are fine and often better for max hangs in the long run, but pinches are usually best trained on the wall. The difference is max hangs teach your brain to recruit muscles while repeaters develop stronger tendons over time. I'm thinking of switching up my routine and incorporating these longer max hangs to create a new stimulus, but was wondering what the rest of the community thinks about short versus long hangs. To make an exercise a little difficult while rehabing a pulley. They could use repeaters and moon if they want to preserve power when training for a longer and/or pumpy project. Dec 6, 2022 · Overall, by volume repeaters in the 3-5 set range are superior for both strength and hypertrophy compared to max hangs up to 9 sets in isolation. You could use max hangs and moon to build strength and power. You can learn how to hangboard with good form more easily with repeaters. uax zai ufntk txxlh vjqtg qdj zhblgvh qwr bdauo qporpo