Alpinesavvy rappel. The pre-rigged (aka “stacked”) rappel, can improve speed and reduce risk in certain conditions. Nov 23, 2024 · You’re rappelling, and unexpectedly came to a damaged section of rope that you didn't notice from above. Mar 2, 2025 · Retreat (aka bail) anchors or not something you hopefully do very often. Here are some solid tips to hopefully get you down in one piece, without creating too many (epic) stories to tell later. There’s another application - when you're rappelling into unfamiliar terrain with the location of the next anchors uncertain or nonexistent. Oct 1, 2020 · Attach a locking carabiner and rappel device to the double loop, and your anchor tether locking carabiner to the end of the single loop. May 15, 2025 · Five more quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. Sep 24, 2021 · It might be drilled into your head that you must always thread your rope through existing hardware when rappelling, but that's not always the case. If you rappel smoothly on a dynamic rope, the anchor will only see about 1-2 kN, and the direction of force will always be down. Nov 17, 2018 · It's best practice to run your rappel through some sort of metal connection to the anchor. A normal multi pitch anchor doesn’t require locking carabiners on the bolts. ️ Alpinesavvy - Helping you climb Better, Safer, and Smarter. Mar 24, 2025 · A series of quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. Alpine Savvy. Here's a simple but unconventional technique that can allow teams to pass each other with greater speed and reduced frustration. You and your partner grab opposite ends of the ropes and pull, hard. This really comes into play on multi pitch double rope rappels. Jul 7, 2023 · The “backside clove hitch” offers several options for efficient transitions from climbing to descending. 1,918 likes · 2 talking about this. Feb 23, 2025 · Like, save, and share with a friend. This post covers: 1) rappel anchor backups, 2) route hardware bolting tips (stainless steel!), 3) using “rack pack” carabiners, 4) a crafty Klemheist hitch variation, and 5) how to rack an adjustable tether so it won’t trip you up. We cover toprope locker draws at this post. Here's one way to use this tool: the second is lowered with an ATC on the anchor and the rope through the anchor hardware. Jul 15, 2025 · Five bite sized, quick tips of best practices. Jun 22, 2025 · So how strong is the girth hitch master point? How about if one strand gets cut? Can you girth hitch a sling to a carabiner (and survive?) Here's an overview of various flavors of anchor rigging, and links to actual break testing. Here are three methods to dial in this equalization. One of you keeps the “pull” pressure on, while the other suddenly releases their end. Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. Backup with friction hitch. Dec 27, 2021 · Creating redundancy in rappel anchors Say you have a rappel anchor like the one shown below. Here are some more detailed tips about how to handle it. Mar 29, 2019 · Here's another crafty way to secure the rope strands - a stacked rappel (aka pre-rigged) with an autoblock. In reality there are some nuances, and definitely some ways to letha Note on stacked rappels and ONE stopper knot: This may well be the best solution of all for multi pitch rappelling: Both partners (or at least the second) use an extended rappel and pre-rig with an autoblock backup. Below is a typical set up, with one locker draw Mar 8, 2023 · A simpler method that uses what you already would carry: Extend your rappel with a 120cm sling like shown in the alpine savvy article, be sure to tie a butterfly for ease of untying. Try this. Learn about this and a few other Crafty Rope Tricks (CRT) to make your next rappel have a happy ending. It may not have much application in day-to-day climbing, but in certain situations, it is a very useful tool. As you start your double rope rappel, clip your tether carabiner to the rope that needs to get pulled. However, each person is clipped to 1/2 of the anchor system, with no redundancy. This anchor is only for rappelling, so the “rules” change a bit. ️ 550+ climbing tips and navigation resources. Nov 27, 2018 · Rappelling with a group , especially with newer climbers, can take a L O N G time. While some people feel strongly you should always use your tie in points, the truth is that the “best” method depends on a few different factors. It works Jun 2, 2024 · Extending your rappel device away from your harness has a host of benefits . Feb 8, 2024 · Belaying the LEADER directly from the anchor is known as a “fixed point” belay. Learn how to craft and modify equipment for mountaineering, climbing, and adventure activities. Apr 29, 2019 · Especially on alpine routes, you can count on occasionally finding a rappel station with just a single marginal connection for the rope. It has a host of subtle benefits, and it's a Crafty Rope Trick (CRT) well worth adding to your toolbox. Aug 22, 2022 · When you need to rappel the same route you just climbed, the transition at the top can often be a big time suck. ¡Prepárate para desafiar tus límites y conectarte con la naturaleza en nuestro tour de escalada! Desde las alturas majestuosas hasta las aves que te saludan, ¡te espera una aventura inolvidable! ¡Con rutas que van desde desafiantes hasta vertiginosas, tenemos algo para todos los niveles! Learn essential rappelling skills with our expert guides, tips, and tutorials for rock climbing, backcountry, and mountaineering safety. What’s cool about the quad? Good load distribution Minimal extension Fully redundant Quick to set up and break down, no knots to untie Super strong (would you believe 40 kN?!) Bonus, two independent and load distributed master points Oct 13, 2023 · “Dang it, which rope strand do we need to pull, I forgot!” Here's a simple way to remember. 🙏 Thanks! . Here's a simple and more secure method. 👍 Follow me and “Add to Favorites” to see more tips like this. What’s cool about the quad? Good load distribution Minimal extension Fully redundant Quick to set up and break down, no knots to untie Super strong (would you believe 40 kN?!) Bonus, two independent and load distributed master points Dec 6, 2022 · Petzl makes two highly specialized ropes suitable for alpine climbers, the RADline and the PURline. Here are several of them, in a great little diagram from the clever Petzl web gnomes. See more than 600 tips for anchors, belay, rappel, wilderness skills, mountaineering, snow & rock climbing, big wall, DIY gear making, first aid, and more. This sets up the rope perfectly for the leader to rappel. There are a few considerations, pros and cons, learn ‘em here. The center, in addition to having beautiful landscapes, it has some walls that are excellent for rappelling. Learn essential rappelling skills with our expert guides, tips, and tutorials for rock climbing, backcountry, and mountaineering safety. May 17, 2024 · Don’t load both strands when rappelling If you rappel with both strands through your ATC, it's important to remember it's a single strand rappel, and keep your brake hand and third hand/autoblock on the real climbing rope. Strength loss from knots in webbing and cord Here’s a nice diagram drawn by IFMGA Guide Georg Sojer @sojercartoon from an article by German mountain guide / Bergfuhrer Chris Semmel of the German Mountain and Ski Guides Association (“Verband Deutscher Berg und Skiführer” or “VDBS”). See examples of strong and simple rigging here. Watch the video for a scary mom Nov 29, 2018 · Scenario: You’re the last person rappelling on two ropes tied together, and you’re worried about the knot getting stuck on a ledge or crack near the anchor. Feb 2, 2019 · Placing a prusik hitch above your rappel device might initially seem like a good way to backup your rappel. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. . Main concept: keep yourself close to the wall by placing gear. The center has cabins and the rental of horses, binoculars, bicycles and an exciting zip line. Dec 26, 2024 · Rappelling isn’t the only way to get down a cliff. May 15, 2024 · What seems like a pretty simple question, “What's the best way to connect a tether to my harness?”, turns out to have no single answer. Aug 31, 2023 · Pre-rigged rappel for an awkward rap station . Mar 5, 2024 · Yikes, your rope got damaged near the middle from rockfall, and for whatever reason you have to keep climbing up instead of rapping down. But, there’s three reasons why this is not the preferred method. Jun 17, 2023 · A rope block (aka Reepschnur), is a technique where you block one strand of your rappel rope to prevent it from running through the anchor. There’s three common options for this; learn the pros and cons of each one. Click the “Get Skilled” menu link to get started. The belay anchor general principle of striving for “three good pieces“ doesn’t necessarily apply to a rappel anchor. Sep 8, 2022 · The pre-rigged rappel anchor and belay . The bolts are solid, and you're standing on a decent ledge. (In the Portland Oregon area, the rappel off of Rooster Rock in the Columbia River Gorge has a notorious knot-eating crack at the top, and is a great place to use this technique. The second person rigs an extended rappel with autoblock, and puts both rope strands through a standard tube device. There’’s no need to pull up the strand that's fallen down, tie a stopper knot in it, and re-throw it - a big time saver. Please, never consider doing this and always leave behind a $5 carabiner instead. Discover expert tips, gear guides, and route maps for big wall climbing and mountaineering on Alpinesavvy to enhance your skills safely. In this case, many people would be just fine with each partner clipping to one bolt as shown, and rigging to rappel. Conceptually it's pretty simple. Now the first person can rappel with Grigri on a single strand. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em. Feb 15, 2024 · On multipitch rappels, you can save a surprising amount of time by using a few simple time-saving techniques. Here is a simple, fast and unconventional way to get past the knot. May 22, 2021 · Rappelling when you have an overhang and/or a traverse can be especially challenging. Jan 10, 2019 · With 3 (or more) people, a pre-rigged rappel lets two people rappel at one time, each on a single fixed strand. Let's take a closer look. Jul 23, 2025 · Stuck rappel rope? Try the “rubber band” trick You start to pull the rap rope, but can’t get it moving. Mar 26, 2020 · A belayed rappel is something many climbers think might be helpful only with a nervous beginner who needs the extra reassurance of a belay, or maybe an injured partner. Sep 1, 2021 · The sharp edge might damage your rope, and if you rappel, the extra friction might make it impossible to pull your rope down. On a larger diameter rope, lowering extra heavy loads like haul bags or two people at once On a smaller diameter rope, lowering a person or rappelling Rappelling THE WEIGHTED LOAD-STRAND-DIRECT LOWER Watch on 1/14/19 Ascending on Rappel Watch on 1/13/19 9/19/18 Learn essential rappelling skills with our expert guides, tips, and tutorials for rock climbing, backcountry, and mountaineering safety. Sep 8, 2018 · A variation of the Munter hitch is the "Super Munter", which adds a lot more friction and therefore control over your rope. ) Try this #CraftyRopeTrick to move the knot past the Jan 8, 2024 · Continuing our dissection of ski mountaineering rappel systems, we explore various options for rappel extensions/tethers and third hands. One other option is the self-lower. Here's just about everything you need to know about these ropes. Interestingly, it shows that cord is Explore DIY gear making and modification tips for outdoor enthusiasts. See 400+ more tips like this at alpinesavvy. . Jan 26, 2019 · Most climbers don’t give much thought as to which strand of the rope they pull after a rappel. Here's one that doesn’t involve leaving a precious carabiner behind. ️ My website has no ads, paid product promotions, affiliate marketing links, or brand sponsorships. However, some rappel situations, such as: a single strand wet/icy rope skinny rope cold hands no gloves forgot your third hand friction hitch backup wearing a heavy pack or dangling a haulbag a rescue where you have the weight of 2 climbers on the rappel rope dark an icy, slippery slab a knuckle scraping overhang Aug 9, 2019 · Need to move your team from a safe spot out to an exposed rappel station? From the crafty rope trick experts at Petzl, here’s one way to do it. In this post: 1) “boosting” a low anchor, 2) rope pull tip for a traversing rappel, 3) how a redirect increases anchor loading, 4) why you don't need an overhand knot on a tied loop anchor, and 5) how to set up a lower with a Grigri. The traditional method of each climber using a tether/PAS to connect to the anchor, each person untying from their respective ends of the rope, threading the anchor, tossing each rope strand, and then each person rigging for a rappel separately, involves a LOT of steps and (usually Apr 24, 2023 · It's common to find a mess of cord and webbing at some alpine rappel anchors. Explore expert tips, NorthWest climbing guides, and mountaineering resources to improve your outdoor skills and trip planning. But when you need to, there are some specific requirements. But, the strand you pull can make a difference in avoiding snags. Then (if needed) you may build a second anchor and try to equalize #1 and #2. Oct 5, 2024 · Need to shorten your connection to the anchor when using a tether? It's common to unclip and reclip your locking carabiner, but this can increase the chances of clipping it incorrectly. However, there are some nuances to doing it correctly, efficiently, and with reduced risk. The highly advanced technique of lead rope soloing is one way to solve this unfortunate and unlikely situation. The quad anchor, first mentioned (I think) around 2006 by John Long in his book “ Climbing Anchors ”, was an attempt to have the Holy Grail in anchors. Learn essential rappelling skills with our expert guides, tips, and tutorials for rock climbing, backcountry, and mountaineering safety. Learn how here. ¡Prepárate para desafiar tus límites y conectarte con la naturaleza en nuestro tour de escalada! Desde las alturas majestuosas hasta las aves que te saludan, ¡te espera una aventura inolvidable! ¡Con rutas que van desde desafiantes hasta vertiginosas, tenemos algo para todos los niveles! Sep 12, 2023 · When it comes to adding friction on skinny ropes while rappelling, it requires some practice, personal testing, and expertise. You're ready to rappel. Do yourself and everybody else a favor: cut away everything that's questionable and add some new material of your own to make an anchor that's more reliable and easier for others to inspect. Feb 27, 2025 · This anchor is only for rappelling, so the “rules” change a bit. and a few problems. Jan 7, 2019 · The “backside clove hitch”? Is that something you might find in a San Francisco leather bar? Nope, it's a new approach to transitioning from climbing to rappelling. b 1) Bolted top rope anchor. May 24, 2025 · At some point, all climbers will have to rappel down an unknown route. Here’s a Crafty Rope Trick (CRT) to cut that time almost in half. Both have a static Dyneema core, both are 6 mm, and both are designed for different applications. The primary reasons to use this: Prevent the belayer from being violently yanked into the air, slammed against the rock, and potentially being injured or even losing control of the belay Reduces the force on lead protection due to rope slippage Allows a greater chance of actually holding a factor 2 fall. How would you get past it? Here’s one method. This post covers: quad anchor tips, pre threading your haul pulley, the twist-free Munter rappel, how to cut webbing, and a caution on ‘open” slings. ) Dec 3, 2024 · In crevasse rescue, you often build one anchor and transfer the load to it. But a top rope anchor, which may be unattended throughout the day and have many people climbing on it, may benefit from having at least one locker draw. This gives pretty much all the benefits of a classic simul rappel with greatly reduced risk. There's a few ways to back it up. Dec 23, 2018 · Sure, on a bluebird day, standard rappel practice is probably going to work fine. May 17, 2024 · Using a skinny pull cord, in combination with a regular climbing rope, allows full length rappels with reduced gear and pack weight. Aug 29, 2018 · It’s rare, but you might someday find yourself having to rappel two full rope lengths on a single strand. com For the complete article: 1) See link in Bio, 2) Go here: See more than 600 tips for anchors, belay, rappel, wilderness skills, mountaineering, snow & rock climbing, big wall, DIY gear making, first aid, and more. It’s from a German climbing magazine, here’s the original. Learn all about it here. Learn multiple ways to rig it, and the pros and cons of each. Climbing tips and navigation resources for the savvy alpinist Oct 14, 2019 · Here are some ways to use a locker draw. If you're worried about the bolts connect them with an Alpine draw and/or back it up with something. This lets you do a single strand rappel on the other side. vque mxqat ghkwchn fuqpesx ngnjf rhkx jckmjv skfdxzp qahe eqqzahk
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